FFuture

Suzuki TL1000S

The main reason for choosing the TL1000S is that it is probably the best bang for the buck available today ('99). It has an ill-deserved reputation for being lightning fast and highly unstable and this has killed the prices of both new and second hand bikes. The reality is that it is indeed lightning fast but there are enough tuning people out there that no how to tame it. For instance several people (Maxton, RaceTech) make replacement rear dampers that completely replace Suzuki's rotary damper. All the major manufacturer's make steering dampers. And finally there is a range of alternative exhausts available with kits to remap the EFI.

So the plan is as follows:-

Buy a second hand TL, preferably a '98 model as Suzuki made some important changes. Typical UK price is <£4000
Fit a new rear damper (~£350)
Fit a Suzuki GSXR600 rear wheel with 180/55 tyre (~£100)
Fit an aftermarket steering damper(~£150)
Fit an M4 2-1 exhaust.(~£500)
Remove all bodywork and rear sub-frame.
Remove the footrests and gear/brake linkages.

We're now left with something that looks like this. (If you imagine the right side 2-1 exhaust). Click on the image for a closer view(120Kb).

Notice that I have cut away part of the rear frame. If you look at the next picture, you can see that the back end of the frame has two upright "ears" that serve no other purpose than to support the sub-frame and tank. The cross bracing is below the cut, and serves to provide mounting points for the suspension. The alternate shock from Maxton uses the swing arm and frame shock mountings with no linkage, but even if you kept the standard rotary shock it doesn't infringe on seat space much.

We now have mounting points where the footrests went and the lower of the old sub-frame mounts for a new rear sub-frame. There is just enough room for a thin seat base with about a 20 deg slope upwards at the front.

I have also relocated the oil cooler to hang from the front cylinder head.

Here's a top view

We now need to construct the following frame parts.

A secondary headstock to mount just behind airbox. This has a drag link down the right hand side of the airbox from the top triple clamp. It can be mounted off the top engine mounts.
Forward footrests. We should be able to hang these from the lower engine mounts and some points low on the engine.
A Fuel tank between the footrests and using up space particularly on the lower lhs of the engine.
A Rear sub-frame and seat
Assorted brackets and fittings to lose all the bits that used to be hidden under the seat such as the battery.
A new wiring loom or extensions to the old loom.
Extended hoses and cables so that the controls actually work.
Move the instrument panel and attach it with appropriate brackets to the old fairing support stays.

At this stage and after a weekends work (!) We have a rideable FF to terrorise the neighbourhood with. Raw materials have cost about £6000 so far. But we have a bike that weighs about 170Kg with 120rwhp. Wow! If the materials above were produced as a commercial kit, for say £2000, the lucky owner would have spent about £7500.

The next stage is to wrap the whole thing in fibreglass with an appropriately swoopy and far out design. If we allow another £1000 for a body kit. The whole shebang could be put on the road for £8500 and you would have something that outperformed anything else on the road.

The only mildly tricky aspect for a punter who was building from a kit would be cutting the rear of the frame but this could be safely done with a hand held hacksaw (!)

Virtual Design

If anyone thinks the above is a good idea or has any opinion about it, feel free to develop drawings or pictures and email me at julian_bond@voidstar.com